3. TRONDHEIM TO BODØ (4 – 13 June 2013)

 

We are now in Bodø (67 °11N), having sailed here from Trondheim where we posted our last Blog (No 2) on 3 June.  Our progress to date, since we left Ipswich on 8 May, is illustrated below:

 

Progress to date from Ipswich

    

Northern Norway is generally considered to start north of Trondheim, although the stretch of coast that we covered to Bodø actually faces west.  It straddles the Arctic Circle (66°33N) but, because of the Gulf Stream, it does not have an arctic climate. Fjords still cut inland at intervals and the mainland continues to be protected by scattered groups of islands and skerries. These also continue to create inner leads (or sea lanes) that are used by commercial ships, ferries and pleasure craft – not that we’ve seen more than half a dozen yachts in transit.  Our route up this part of the coast is illustrated below and commented on in this Post:

Route taken Trondheim to Bodø

After seeing Al and Lynn off to the airport by bus on Sunday 2 June, we decided to remain in Trondheim for an extra day to sort ourselves out, plan forward, purchase supplies and complete a few “essential” boat chores.  It also gave us the opportunity to take a better look at Trondheim – Norway’s third largest city.  

On our first day out from Trondheim we covered 70 miles northwards through the most rock-infested area we had experienced to date.  On reflection, the passage was quite manageable but during the planning stage it looked pretty horrendous.

Typical rocky route shown on chart

We stopped at 10 p.m. in a small natural harbour in the attractive village of Harsvik on Stokkøya island.   It is located in the middle of a narrow twisting sound and is fully protected in all directions from both wind and waves.  On arrival we pulled on to a very nice, very clean empty pontoon in the centre of town. Someone had kindly provided a new set of pinewood steps, clearly there, we thought, to help US to get on and off the boat.

An hour after our arrival a security agent (??) (cunningly disguised as a journalist photographer) advised us that we had berthed on the pontoon reserved (and cleaned!) for the King and Queen of Norway who were visiting the next day. Once he had ascertained that we were not terrorists and were planning to leave early in the morning, he was happy to let us stay overnight – for free!

Helen testing out steps for Royalty at Harsvik

Next day, as we continued north, we crossed paths with the Royal Yacht Norge. It was being escorted by a couple of naval frigates and was “dressed overall”. The Royal couple were ashore at Bessaker, a small village, as part of their tour of the region.

Norwegian Royal Yacht Norge – dressed overall

We arrived at midnight in Rørvik, a small harbour situated in a very narrow sound.  It was still bright daylight even though the sun had just sunk below the horizon. Only two hours later we watched the sun “rise” again, having meanwhile made immediate use of the sailing club’s showers and washing machine!

During the following day we again worked on the engine, still convinced that we have a small air leak.  Certainly the situation has improved but it is not right yet.  The engine is very selective as to when it breaks down. It seems to like nice rocky areas where there is no wind and preferably a strong current in order to create maximum inconvenience. We have, however, become increasingly adept at dealing with its tantrums. We can now bleed, prime, change tanks and get it restarted almost as quickly as a 19^th-century surgeon could amputate a leg! 

Our next stop was Torget, where we anchored in the small, delightful bay of Møynhavn which is surrounded by farms with meadows running down to the anchorage. We wanted to see the Torghatten hole – a 35m-wide natural tunnel created by the sea during the Ice Age which goes right through what is now a 260m mountain that dominates this small island. On the way to the anchorage we had seen the hole from out at sea.

Torghatten hole seen from out at sea

After anchoring in Møynhavn, we lowered the dinghy and outboard and motored back along the coast to a small inlet at the foot of the path leading up Torghatten.  From there it was a steep but otherwise simple climb to the hole from where there was an outstanding view across the skjægård.

Inside Torghatten hole looking across the skerries

The weather was gloriously hot and on our return to Island Drifter we sat in the cockpit after supper enjoying the warmth and the sounds of the countryside.  

View from Møynhavn anchorage, Torget

By this stage the landscape was of uncompromising grandeur. We were always in sight of snow-topped mountains both on the mainland and forming islands offshore.   

Typical mountain range overlooking our route 

(some of the “Seven Sisters”)

 

Our next port of call was a harbour in the north-west corner of the small strikingly isolated island of Lovund, which is dominated by a 620m mountain.

 

Lovund’s mountain

It was low water springs and the harbour was “a bit” shallow.  As a consequence we “kissed” a couple of rocks with the keel as we made our way to a short empty pontoon.   We had stopped in Lovund to see what is promoted to be one of the largest puffin colonies in the world.  The birds are said to return to the island from their winter quarters at exactly 4.30 a.m. on 14 April each year and the islanders celebrate this day with enthusiasm.  While we have seen quite a few puffins at sea, the only ones we saw when we walked up to the colony were flying high above us.  Not one of the 250,000 puffins deigned to pop out of its burrow!

 

Island Drifter in Lovund harbour

From Lovund we continued north and crossed the Arctic Circle at 66°33N. 

 

Crossing the Arctic Circle

We celebrated with a generous slug of Aquavit.  The bottle had travelled further than we had since La Linea aquavit has formally to cross the Equator as part of its production process.

Celebrating crossing the Arctic Circle

Before crossing the Circle, we nipped in, at noon, to the very small northern harbour of Husøy in Træna in order to see the Arctic Circle Monument.

Arctic Circle Monument in Husøy harbour, Træna

Our objective for that night was to reach the Svartisen glacier in the Hordlandsfjord. Unfortunately, at this stage we discovered that we did not have Chart No 135, which covers the inland area.  However, we did have our chart plotter and we now also have a Navionics app (of the whole of Europe for £38) on the iPad. These were more than adequate for the purpose.  To add to the challenge, a thick fog descended and visibility was soon reduced to less than a boat length. On such occasions, one appreciates the value of radar and electronic charts.  (A downside of the new technology is that Helen now keeps trying to expand the chart plotter screen with her fingers à la iPad…!)

 

Visibility reduced by fog to 20 metres

As we approached the tongue of the glacier at Engen, we felt an icy chill descend – not surprising since the glacier covers 370 sq kms and the air falls off it into the fjord. It is the second largest glacier in mainland Europe (the largest is also in Norway).  In the morning the fog had lifted slightly and we could just glimpse the glacier, although our photo of it is hardly a classic.

Tongue of Svartisen glacier descending to Engen, Hordlandsfjord, in typical weather

 

In order to reach Inndyr, our final destination before Bodø, we had to go outside the skjægård for a while.  We soon realised just how much protection the islands and skerries give to the inner leads.  We did, however, manage a cracking sail, something one does not always get in more protected waters.

 

Beating to wind outside the skjægård

 

We pulled into Inndyr on the mainland, a short distance from Bodø, since we wanted somewhere peaceful (and cheap!) in which to take a couple of days off to do a bit of admin before proceeding to the Lofoten Islands. It is surprising how much time it takes when abroad to manage one’s affairs in the UK.   Inndyr is a lovely little working harbour with a boatyard, a boating club where one can use the facilities, two small supermarkets, a post office and a bank. 

Inndyr harbour at midnight

We left early in the morning to cover the 20 miles to Bodø and to allow ourselves time there to purchase provisions and spare parts prior to setting off for the Lofoten Islands.  Bodø is the region’s largest town. It is the northern terminus of Norway’s railway system.  One can, however, travel onwards easily by ferry, bus or plane.  Unfortunately the city is architecturally uninspiring, since its nineteenth-century city centre was levelled in WWII. Its main charm lies in its backdrop of distant rugged peaks and vast skies. Dramatic islands support the world’s densest population of white-tailed sea eagles.  As we approached the city we actually saw our first sea eagle. It was an enormously impressive-looking bird. 

On arrival we fuelled up before moving onto one of the gjestbryggen (guest pontoons) adjacent to the quay for the prawn-fishing boats.  They were cooking the prawns in vats as they arrived in the harbour. We had no choice but to treat ourselves to a couple of litres and one of our remaining bottles of white wine.   No expense spared on Island Drifter!

Locally caught prawns being sold off the boats at Bodø

We’ll now cross over to the Lofoten Islands before travelling north through the Vesterålen Islands to Tromsø.